Coral Bay, Paphos, Cyprus

The rocky coastline is punctuated by many
sandy bays and to the north of Paphos lies
the long sandy beach at Coral Bay. This is
the ideal base from which to tour the
magnificent Troodos Mountains or to
discover the delights of the little historic
fishing villages of Latchi and Polis.

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History and Culture of Cyprus

History

Cyprus can boast a history of civilised life stretching back almost 9,000 years but for most Cypriots the events of the latter half of the 20th century have more resonance and impact than the Phoenecians, Egyptians, Romans and Ancient Greeks put together.

The relics of all the past inhabitants of Cyprus are liberally sprinkled around. A stepping stone for empires, and of strategical import for trading it was passed around by various invaders. The Myceneans were the first notable culture to establish themselves here, and the Egyptians arrived in 1500BC, staying for several centuries, and being joined by colonies of Cretans and Phoenecians as well as a vast number of Greeks in around 1200BC, who came fleeing the invading Dorians.

By the 9th century BC Cyprus was already quite cosmopolitan, and had its own god, an eastern influenced female deity who eventually became called Aphrodite. Legend has it she came ashore on the island, born from the waves, and the temples built in honour of the goddess, such as at Kouklia counted among the world's foremost religious sites of the time. The island was divided into city states, and although technically a province of Egypt, the Cypriot kings had plenty of power. They joined forces with first the Assyrians, who were defeated by Egypt, and then the Persians who were victorious. Unfortunately for the Cypriot kings this didn't win their freedom, but merely made them vassals of the Persian empire instead.

By the 5th century BC the island was being tussled over between the Persians and the Greeks. Eventually Alexander the Great arrived, and kicked everyone out. When he died most of Cyprus supported Ptolemy, and albeit with a few skirmishes among the city states, he brought a period of great cultural prosperity, based on Hellenic teachings, to the island. In 190BC politics had descended into aggressive bickering among the sons of Ptolemy over the line of succession.

Naturally it took the Romans to sort it all out once and for all, and bring some relative stability to the affair. In 58BC the Empire imposed its own particular brand of order on the island. It was to be seven centuries before the European power fully withdrew, but in that time the island enjoyed relative peace.

The Byzantines and Ottomans came to blows over Cyprus before it had its first taste of British rule with Richard the Lionheart dropping in on his way to the ill-advised Holy Crusade in 1191. It was a very brief visit underpinned with brutality, and Richard sold his new possession to the influential Knights Templar soon afterwards. The Knights Templar might not have been the best rulers for the island, forcing their severe brand of Catholicism on the country and banning the existing faith, but they were shrewd money-makers who realised the island's trading potential for the first time.

The 15th century brought the Venetians who built Nicosia's city walls. However, the Ottomans were hot on their heels and by the mid-16th century had established rule on the island. When the Ottomans' power began to fade and eventually collapsed following World War One they handed over the reins of power to Britain. By now the Cypriots were heartily sick of foreign rule and began to clamour for change. With strong Hellenic links the majority of the population wanted unification with Greece. The others, Turkish in origin, were opposed. Civil unrest led to the formation of the Cypriot Fighters, a guerilla group which began to attack the British occupying forces.

Eventually Britain tired of the conflict and, metaphorically washing its hands of the affair, handed independence to the Cypriots. New President Makarios wasted no time in forging links with Greece, and by 1964 civil war was a real threat only averted when the UN stepped in. By 1967 though the military junta in Greece poured cold water on even the most fervent supporter of unification.

In 1974 a flash Greek invasion replaced Makarios with a puppet president. Turkey responded by invading the north of the island. Greece quickly withdrew, but the Turks refused to relinquish the northern third proclaiming it the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. The UN maintained its presence in the country and refused to acknowledge the Turkish Republic, as does the rest of the international community. The south of the country once more became the Republic of Cyprus, but the Turkish occupation remains a bitter pill. Tensions remained high and skirmishes along the border occurred frequently, especially so as the UN scaled down its peace-keeping role in the territory.

In the late 1990s Cyprus began the process of accession to the EU which it achieved on May 1st, 2004. Prior to the attainment of full membership the country voted on a settlement between the two halves of the island. While the Greek Cypriots were strongly opposed to unification, the majority of Turkish Cypriots were in favour, even though for many it meant giving up homes and livelihoods that they'd built up over many decades. President Papadopoulos has promised to pursue a settlement over the coming years, and is keen to assure Turkish Cypriots that the benefits of accession to the EU will be available for all Cypriots regardless of their roots.

 

Culture

Cyprus's traditional culture has been somewhat diluted by the vast numbers of European tourists that flock here year on year. Similarly to the Spanish Costas and the Balearics, parts of the island have been usurped (at least seasonally) by other European nations, most notably the resort of Aiya Napa which for several months each year is thoroughly Anglicised by hordes of British tourists.

But the island is working hard to preserve its own character. Its wealth of history shouldn't be ignored, and shows Roman and classical influences. The over-riding culture though is Greek in origin and shares many features of that nation. Consequently you'll find that Cypriot culture is rather machismo. Traditional gender roles are borne out in male/female relations. Young men are often show-offs who attempt to impress tourists and each other with their activities.

The society is firmly rooted in religion, in this case Greek Orthodox, and you'll find that the basic tenets of hospitality and mutual respect are adhered to in private life as much as in the religious sphere. Although tourism has changed much of the island's character, certain parts of it are still traditionally archaic farming or fishing communities that exist as they have done for centuries.

 

Do's and Don'ts

Don't feel obliged to tip if you're dining where the 10% service charge (levied at hotels and restaurants) has already been included in the bill. Otherwise, service operators such as taxi drivers and porters will definitely appreciate a small tip.

Don't let the variable place names confuse you: the government has introduced official versions of place names based on Latin characters, but old habits die hard: most places are known by both old and new names, and even road signs can be inconsistent. To help you out, here are the official names, followed by the old (and generally better known) names:

Lefkosia = Nicosia
Larnaka = Larnaca
Lemessos = Limassol
Pafos = Paphos
Agia Napa = Ayia Napa

Do try a few words of Greek: although English is widely spoken as a second language, especially in tourist areas, the use of even a few words of Greek is warmly welcomed. Try kali mera for "good day" and efharisto for "thank you".

Do dress modestly in the churches and monasteries of Cyprus: avoid shorts and sleeveless tops.

Don't take photographs or otherwise linger near military facilities. Signs usually indicate where photography is not allowed, but common sense also comes in very handy. If in doubt: don't.

 

Paphos

The booming main town and year-round resort in the west consists of Upper Paphos, built on a rocky escarpment that commands a superb view of the coastline, and Lower Paphos, with a taverna-fringed harbour and a long seafront lined with hotels.

Paphos is rich in ancient sites, in particular a cluster of excavated Roman villas near the harbour, among them the House of Dionysos and the Villa of Theseus, that contain superb mosaic floors, and the Tombs of the Kings.

Other attractions include the Paphos District Museum, the Byzantine Museum, Paphos Fort commanding the harbour, the remains of the Byzantine castle of Saranda Kolones, and Panagia Chrysopolitissa Church, the largest early Christian basilica on the island. Paphos Aquarium is of more recent origin.